It’s been a little over a month since we landed in Seattle and while things have slowed down for us considerably, we’re not without some great news.  First, the crew:

Dominique is aboard Bagan, running the program from Seattle.  Bagan came through our five month trek basically without a scratch.  The few small repairs and upkeep that she’s in need of are being overseen by Dom and I rest easy knowing that all 57 tons of her are in excellent hands.

Chauncey has gone back to Denver and is studying for the entrance exams for  his Master’s Degree in Business.  We chat often and we both agree that being back in the “real” world has been an “odd” adjustment.

Sefton is also back in Denver and will be picking up where he left off at The University of Colorado, Denver. He’s planning on moving into a business major but will be “minoring” in music.

As you may remember, Greg has been back here in RI for quite a while now catching up where he left off with his business Aquidneck Mooring Company.

I’m back here in Newport, trying to catch up and stay one step ahead.  When you leave on a trip of this extent, no matter how well you think you have all the bases covered there are always a few small items which, in your prolonged absence, grow rapidly into large, snarling, growling issues.  I think I can speak for all of us when I say when we find that we’re having one of “those” days we can manage a smile and think “At least I’m not stuck in the ice in The Passage!”.

And “Bagan”, that wonderfully amazing vessel who so bravely got us to and through The Northwest Passage (Georgs Kolesnikovs writes in Circumnavigator Magazine http://www.trawlersandtrawlering.com/ that she is the first production powerboat to do the trip) has been invited to strut her stuff and be on display in the Seattle Boat Show late January.  If you’re in the neighborhood here’s more info about the show: http://www.seattleboatshow.com

As promised in the last blog, there is good news all around us and the project.  I can offer one small tidbit without divulging too much; with some luck and a bit of hard work, you may soon be able to watch our experience of this past summer on something other than your computer screen.  I’ll stop with that as I’ve said too much!

Also, today I received an email from Peter Janssen at MotorBoating Magazine  (Peter and MotorBoating published four articles which I wrote during the trip.  If you haven’t had a chance to read them try to hunt them down as they contain some amazing pictures which I don’t think we have on this site):

From Peter:

“Hi Sprague,

Just FYI, I entered your story Mission Accomplished in the Boating Writers International awards competition… Keep your fingers crossed. They announce the winners at the Miami show in February…

Best,
Peter”

More later!!
ST

Posted on Friday, December 11th, 2009
Filed under: Arctic Climate, Bagan, Life After the Northwest Passage by Sprague
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We saw Russia and the U.S. at the same time and came within 900 miles of the North Pole. We visited Greenland and Alaska in the same summer & on the same boat. We saw the water temp go from 70 degrees to 30.5 We dodged icebergs in two major oceans.  We went as far north as 75N, traveled 1/3^rd of the way around the world and cruised 8,500 nautical miles through eight different time zones. Bagan sailed three oceans in one summer, traveled further west than Hawaii and last but not least, transited from the east coast to the west cost via The Northwest Passage.

In all of this we also witnessed and enjoyed one of the more amazing creations this world has to offer; The Wagner family’s world famous “Dump Cake”, an amazing concoction of almost all things sweet and edible and guaranteed to provide you with an extra pound or two!  One crew member who I’m glad I didn’t have to tell you about (but am very happy to do so now) is Dr. Phil Wagner, the expedition’s resident doctor.  I met Phil this past winter when I was battling the Little Toe From Hell.  During one of my doctor appointments with Phil we got to talking about the trip to The Passage and by the end of that day I was emailing him asking him if he’d consider being our doctor on call. He very graciously accepted the invitation, spent many, many hours assembling our ship’s medical kit and gave Dominique a very detailed, one day course on just about any emergency which could pop up.  It was a always comfort  knowing that Phil was literally a phone call away, a call that I’m very happy to say we never had to make.  Thank you Phil and family!!

I also want to take a quick moment to thank all of you who posted comments and kept cheering us on.  Even for those of you who didn’t post, knowing that you were out there with us in your thoughts, I want to thank you from the bottom of my heart.  You were every bit as responsible in helping make this trip the wonderful success that is was.

For the detractors and naysayers about out trip, all I can say is I’m sorry you felt this way. I think had you taken the time to personally reach out and communicate with me rather than simply post discouraging comments and negative words on other chat sites, it would have done wonders for all of us.  Please know that as each of the wonderfully supportive emails we received inspired us on, hearing about those who challenged my decisions to do this trip, without actually having the honesty and courage to get in touch with me, was very detrimental to the effort.  I simply can not fathom why a person would post and say derogatory things without making the effort to get in touch with me personally. There is and always will be anonymous safety behind a computer screen.

In the end, I simply could not be more proud (prouder?) of my crew, Chauncey, Dominique, Sefton and Greg.  They performed above and beyond my wildest expectations.  I truly love these people. They are modern day heroes and I will forever regard them as such.  The fact that Chaunce and Dom are my stepchildren and Sefton my son is simply icing on the cake! They fulfilled the dream. As for Bagan, we put her through her paces and she brought us home without a scratch.

I would not have done this trip on any other boat or with any other crew!

“This isn’t the end, nor is it the beginning of the end.
In fact, it’s simply the end of the beginning.”

Posted on Monday, November 9th, 2009
Filed under: Arctic Climate, Bagan, Findings from the Field, Leaving the Northwest Passage by Sprague
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Since we left Ketchikan we’ve been managing to keep one step, sometimes two steps ahead of some gale force and full gale force winds.  Last night we found an, according to one cruising guide, anchorage that was safe from all winds, a “very secure anchorage”, in that its entrance was a bit circuitous and once in, was a small and secure hole protected on all sides by steep walls of pines.  At 5:00 this morning some very clever winds broke through this ring of security and we were battered by 30-40 kts winds which caused us to drag, slowly but surely, towards a rocky shore. Letting out more scope was beyond the question as had we had done this we would have been on the shore.  So, in the complete darkness we had to raise the anchor, and find our way out all the while being battered and swung about by the building “breeze”.  We did eventually exit the wash bowl but not without two or three very close calls with rocks and an unforgiving coastline.  What was waiting outside for us in the Finlayson Channel was a bit worse in that these winds topped 50kts.  We had no choice but to leave as resetting the hook in the darkness was impossible. Happy to say that we’re now tucked away in another secure anchorage, but this one has an easy out.  By the way, after we finally clawed our way out of the anchorage Dominique said, “That was right up there with the ice.” We all agreed. 450 more miles to Seattle.

Posted on Friday, October 30th, 2009
Filed under: Arctic Climate, Leaving the Northwest Passage by Sprague
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Before we left Newport last June someone asked me if the thought of trying to transit the Northwest Passage worried me.  My answer received no hesitation when I responded, “Yup, but not as much as the Bering Sea.” Throughout maritime history the Bering has more times than not played a role bordering on villainous and unforgiving. Nowadays such television shows as “The Deadliest Catch” show us graphically all too well why it’s earned the reputation that it has; it’s a very shallow sea which receives a strong current from the south and more times than not, stronger weather systems from the north.  All factors make for an unpredictable, play-for-keeps sort of scenario.

After downloading and studying weather charts for a few days we decided the time was “now” and on Sunday the 13^th we started our leg south down through the Bering.  We had three days to get to the Aleutians before some weather systems closed in from the top. As I type these words, I’m very happy to be anchored in Cold Bay, a protected anchorage in Alaska’s North Pacific Ocean… Pacific Ocean.  The weather charts proved 100% reliable, as they usually do, and the 650 mile trip south was, while I won’t say easy, manageable.  We had nothing over 20 kts from the NW and the seas never reached over four feet.  Bagan made great time and daily, at one point or another, one of us would say how wonderful it’s going to be to get the Bering behind us and back into Bagan’s home waters, the Pacific.  Oh Mother Nature… Always with the sense of humor.  At 8:30 last night we transited Unimak Pass in the Aleutians, crossing from the benign Bering to the awaiting Pacific.

Trying to take shelter from a growing northerly we motored along Unimak Island’s south shore towards a pre-planned anchorage, only to get battered in the dark by an onslaught of williwaws rolling down the island’s slope.  A strong westerly current also ran along the shore which immediately made for huge winds and higher waves.  We were blown out of our intended anchorage. We struck a course for off-shore to try and escape the grip of the current/wind combination and while we did manage to lose some of the waves, the winds generated stronger and steeper seas of their own.  Bagan slammed along in sustained 40kt winds for about half an hour before we all decided that the ride we had back on shore was, albeit no better, a bit more manageable, which by the time we got back there, it wasn’t.  So, once again, after 30 minutes of trying to find an angle she would be happy with, we again struck off for the off-shore route, edging our way NE towards Seward.  To give you an example of what the winds were like, I came on watch at 2:00 a.m. Within 15 minutes I’d seen every strength of breeze up to 48kts coming from every point on the compass.  Sefton summed it up best when he matter-of-factly said, “This is insane.”

At 3 in the morning, Dominique was poring over the Coast Pilot finding us a suitable anchorage within a 50 mile radius.  What she found for us couldn’t have been better as where we sit now is the perfect respite for all of us, including Bagan who once again performed above and beyond her duties. 

We’re keeping all eyes on some other systems and, for now, the plan is to leave at first light and head to Humboldt Harbor on Popof Island.  From what we can see there’s a good marina there which would be a prefect place to wait out the next few blows.

_____________

On a more personal note: It’s with great regret that we all had to say good-bye to Clinton Bolton before we left Nome.  Clinton indicated he had pressing issues back east which needed attending to. Simply put, Clinton was the person who got us to and through The Northwest Passage. His wit, wisdom and company will sorely be missed.  Life is anything but predictable and as Clinton always said, even while trapped in the ice, “It is what it is.”  All of us aboard wish Clinton only the very best.

Posted on Friday, September 18th, 2009
Filed under: Arctic Climate, Bagan, Leaving the Northwest Passage by Sprague
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Seeing a weather window on the wind charts we took full advantage of it, left Barrow the afternoon of the 7^th and started in on our current leg to Dutch Harbor, via Nome.  We’re now in “Delivery Mode”; no sightseeing, no trips to shore to film, no nuttin’ but hammer down.  Due to their very shallow depths and strong weather patterns, the Chukchi and Bering Seas, where we are now, are notoriously unpredictable. Winds allowing, our aim is to scoot through them as quickly as possibly… winds allowing.

The next morning and in a building NE breeze, we anchored just off the coast in the lee of Kukpowruk Pass. The original thought was to enter and anchor in a small lagoon there but very quickly this proved unwise to attempt as the entrance was sided by heavy breakers suggesting a shallow bar and what opening we could find was about 8 feet deep.  Discretion hopefully being the better part of valor we chose not to enter but anchor off instead. The swell from the NW was still in evidence so we all grabbed a full if not bumpy ten hours of rest.  Around 4:00 p.m. we downloaded more weather charts and saw that the next window had started to open a bit sooner than we expected, so we up anchored and once again got back on the road.  Unfortunately our timing wasn’t exactly spot on as by the time we reached Cape Lisburne we were taking quite a pounding (but not a thrashing); 25 – 30kts of wind with 8 to 10 foot seas.  That lasted most the afternoon and through the night. By the time we rounded we were able to take full advantage of being in the lee of the land and with the dieing breeze, left the swell behind. 

At approximately 3:00 a.m. this morning we entered the Bering Straight (passing by Big and Little Diomede Islands – I guess you could say we saw Russia from our boat – if you really wanted to. We’ve also left the Artic Circle which I’ve very mixed emotions about. More on that in another blog.) and have now officially left the Chuckchi and are motoring quickly towards Nome with a hoped for 4:00 p.m. arrival.  Not much planned at Nome except to officially check into the U.S. as Barrow didn’t have a Customs Office and stretch our legs.  Still too early to make plans but we’re keeping an eye on a promising weather window which may allow us to head out for Dutch as early as this Sunday.  Dutch Harbor will mark the end of this less than visually exciting leg and once away from there we plan to hop our way down through Alaska taking full advantage of the beauty of The Inside Passage.  Said it before and it bares repeating, it will be wonderful to see trees again!

Posted on Thursday, September 10th, 2009
Filed under: Arctic Climate by Sprague
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We’ve made our way a bit further south down Peel Sound and are tucked away in Young Bay, a protected anchorage a little less than halfway down the east side of Prince of Wales Island.  We’re not going anywhere in a hurry as the ice south of us in the central part of The Passage simply isn’t moving or breaking up. Every few days, via email, we’re in touch with Peter Semotiuk in Cambridge Bay seeking his wise council on all things ice related.  For years now, Peter has been the “voice” who the majority of the boats trying to do this trip turn to, to plan their routes and timing and has built a wonderful and well deserved reputation for himself.  It’s his feeling that if the ice clears it may still be a few weeks off.  I first learned of Peter in the fascinating book “Arctic Passages” by John Bockstoce.  If you haven’t had the chance to read this or John’s other book, “High Latitude, North Atlantic” make sure you do as they’re both truly remarkable books about a place that, as I’ve said before, defies description.  “Arctic Passages” is about John’s transiting the arctic in a thirty-two foot walrus hide canoe. It makes our effort aboard Bagan seem like we’re on a luxury liner. A few days before we left Newport John came by Bagan introduce himself and it’s one of the few regrets of this project that I wasn’t around to meet him.  So, here we sit, one eye on the ice charts, the other down the road with all fingers crossed that we’ll soon see or hear about a break in the ice. Trust me when I say “you’ll be the first to know”.

Posted on Sunday, August 9th, 2009
Filed under: Arctic Climate, Traveling the Northwest Passage by Sprague
1 Comment »

Bear Point

We left Beechy Island yesterday, but before we did we downloaded some ice charts for Resolute. Seems the pack ice has come in again so we need to wait for this to clear.  The pump we had Niad ship for the hydraulics isn’t arriving (he writes with all fingers crossed… good trick if you can do it) until Friday so no big rush to get in there.  With this in mind we decided to head north about thirty miles for Bear Point.  The thinking behind this was nothing more clever than to say we crossed the 75^th parallel, which would put us about 900 miles from the North Pole. We’re now anchored farther north than any town or city in the northern hemisphere (I think I have my facts right on this but if not, am sure I’ll hear about it soon!).  So, here we sit on the hook at Bear Point, waiting out a small blow and catching up on sleep.  The landscape is absolutely barren and forbidding, it looks like some of the pictures from the surface of Mars.  Only when you truly look for it can you see any real evidence of vegetation (dwarfed at best) otherwise it’s harsh, desolate and incredibly lonely.  The air temps are still in the low 40s but the wind chill is definitely in the mid 30s, water temp is 38.  Going to try and find a good excuse not to dive today.

Posted on Wednesday, August 5th, 2009
Filed under: Arctic Climate, Traveling the Northwest Passage by Sprague
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Seeing a nice wind window on the weather charts we left Sisimiut yesterday morning and immediately found that while the wind was as advertised (less than 12 kts from the north) the seas left over from an off-shore blow were lumpy and from most every direction, the “washing machine” effect.  Didn’t get any video or pics as looking through a small viewfinder wasn’t something I wanted to do for any longer than necessary (promise to make up for it as tomorrow we “should” be approaching the Greenland Ice Cap).  It wasn’t too long after we started to head north that pockets of fog built to a steady fog bank and once again all eyes were trained on the two radars watching for ice bergs; fog & ice not being a real comforting combination. 120 miles later, at around midnight we felt our way into the small fishing harbor in Aasiaat and dropped the hook. Don’t know what the others did but after a day like that I headed straight for my bunk. The 24 hour daylight has really played havoc with our sleeping schedules so thought is best to let everyone sleep in a bit this morning as we’ve only about 40 miles to cover today.  Our aim is to get up deeper into Disko Bay and closer to the Ice Cap and do some exploring from there. Clinton and I are also keeping an eye on the wind forecast for this coming week as there appears to be a large weather window opening between here and Lancaster Sound.  If that’s the case it’s my hope to get while the getting’s good and scoot across Baffin Bay ASAP to get over toward the Passage.  From what we can see in the downloaded ice charts the ice is continuing to break up and while it may be a tad too early yet to enter it’d be nice to be in place and ready to go.

Posted on Saturday, July 25th, 2009
Filed under: Arctic Climate, Greenland, Iceberg Sitings by Sprague
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