M/V BAGAN Log Entry: 0200 hours

August 31, 2009
69 27’ North Latitude
135 00’ West Longitude
Tuktoyaktuk Harbor, Canadian High Arctic.

Weather: 20-25 knot North winds. The air temperature is 33 F and heavy snow showers are coming off the polar ice cap 60 miles north of our present position.

Forecast: More of the same. Heavy north to northeast winds and snow through tomorrow evening. Seas 6 to 8 feet.

We are happy to be hiding in the well-protected harbor at “Tuk”. Bagan made two hundred miles today after a 2200 departure from a snug anchorage at Summer’s Harbor. A not so interesting gray 24 hours started out with a sloppy swell slamming into the bow, and ended with 4 to 6 foot following seas and a 25-knot tailwind that stole the canvas cover to the grill. Summer is definitely over and we have been reminded that there are only two seasons here: August…  and winter.

Today’s bright side came as we left the Amundsen Gulf and entered the Beaufort Sea, thus completing our transit of the Northwest Passage. Our main goal accomplished, both owner and crew are beaming and feeling that satisfaction of achievement that only comes from succeeding after years of planning, preparation, blood, sweat, and tears. Looking back on the Passage, and what it took to get here, it was completely worth it. The sights and wildlife we have experienced will last us a lifetime and there is still so much to go We have become a tight crew, on a very well prepared boat, feeling like we can take on the world. Our twelve-mile midnight approach to this harbor down a narrow 13-foot deep unlit channel in total darkness during a snowstorm and heavy following sea attests to this. Piece of well planned and studied cake.

Next for Bagan and her crew is the 500 nautical mile run to Barrow, Alaska. It will be good to be back in the USA for while, and we are looking forward to making the turn around the northernmost point in the states and heading south for a while. This, of course, means a rendezvous with the Bering Sea and the dirty weather for which it is famous. Our confident vessel and crew are sure to be tested. Stay tuned.

Capt. Clinton M. Bolton

Posted on Monday, August 31st, 2009
Filed under: Guest Blog by Clinton
5 Comments »

I cannot say that the past three days have been my favorite.  We finally put the “Braving” part into our trip. 

After reading ice charts and making our way fairly smoothly down Peel Sound for the past few weeks, three days ago Mother Nature decided to shake things up a bit.  Not only did we have to push, plow, and break our way through ice, we also had fog and zero breeze (which didn’t help move the ice).  Our radar was one big green blob, and we could only find leads heading the opposite direction we wanted to go!

Sprague on the helm, Clinton on top telling Sprague what direction he should go, Sefton directing Sprague through the breaks (and sometimes breaking) in the ice, Chauncey pushing ice from either side of the bow, Greg and I on the stern clearing the ice from the beam and making sure nothing went under towards the prop when we went into reverse.  We all yelled and cursed (at each other AND the ice). But we persevered. We spent the last two nights with the anchor on a piece of ice drifting with the wind. Finally this morning the ice, the clouds and the fog broke and we have a clear shot down Ross Strait to Gjoa Haven!

Menu: The last three days: Peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, Tonight: Steak!

Posted on Tuesday, August 18th, 2009
Filed under: Guest Blog, Traveling the Northwest Passage by Dominique
3 Comments »

We spent the last two nights in an uncharted harbor 5 miles inland, the depth sounder showed over 100 feet all the way to the end!  When we finally dropped  anchored some of us anxiously went to land to stretch our legs.  Right away four caribou came out of the hillside, we stood absolutely still for thirty minutes just watching them, not a lot of stretching happened, but it was well worth it! Last night, Chauncey spotted a polar bear onshore, definitely checking us out, sniffing the air….and then the fog set in and he was gone, or so we thought.

Slept lightly last night. This morning we picked up anchor at 8 o’clock and started making our way further south towards Ross Strait.  We have two people on watch, one on the fly bridge looking for leads through the ice, and another person on the helm driving. In addition, the only charts for this area available are paper charts, and with the shoals and lack of soundings we have little wiggle room to get us to Gjoa Haven. What we do have are 22 hours, at least.  Today’s menu: Homemade Mac and Cheese for lunch and Beef Barley Vegetable Soup for Dinner.

Posted on Friday, August 14th, 2009
Filed under: Guest Blog, Traveling the Northwest Passage by Dominique
No Comments »

My name is Sefton and I remember one year ago, when I was initially presented with the opportunity to embark on this endeavor. It didn’t take much convincing to get me out of the city life (Denver), and aboard this arctic expedition. For that whole year until the departure, I was eagerly awaiting the voyage. Not only until the couple days before I left Colorado was I naturally overcome by anxiety. Finally we left and the adventure at last became reality.

I knew that this opportunity would be an amazing chance of a lifetime, but I failed to realize how much introspection would happen. Out at sea, up in the Arctic Circle, away from anything resembling home, you really get a chance to view your life from an external point of view. It’s like pausing your life, walking away a couple steps, turning around and analyzing. This self-constructive-analyzation occurred much more passively than I could imagine. I don’t have to actively think about any introspection, who I am is literally presented right in from of me, for better or worse. I am realizing family dynamics, disposition, life outlook, sense of humor, on and on aspects of who I am. I am realizing things about my present life, and oddly enough about my younger days. The only uncertain is and will always be the future.

I am anxious to see how I can apply my learning to my life, when I return to it. But for now this “sabbatical” of sorts is my life, which is seemingly paradoxical. Though I must end here, for I just realized it is my day to do the dishes, and they are stacking up before my eyes.

Posted on Thursday, August 13th, 2009
Filed under: Guest Blog by Sefton
5 Comments »