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It Ain’t Over Till It’s Over

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Since we left Ketchikan we’ve been managing to keep one step, sometimes two steps ahead of some gale force and full gale force winds.  Last night we found an, according to one cruising guide, anchorage that was safe from all winds, a “very secure anchorage”, in that its entrance was a bit circuitous and once in, was a small and secure hole protected on all sides by steep walls of pines.  At 5:00 this morning some very clever winds broke through this ring of security and we were battered by 30-40 kts winds which caused us to drag, slowly but surely, towards a rocky shore. Letting out more scope was beyond the question as had we had done this we would have been on the shore.  So, in the complete darkness we had to raise the anchor, and find our way out all the while being battered and swung about by the building “breeze”.  We did eventually exit the wash bowl but not without two or three very close calls with rocks and an unforgiving coastline.  What was waiting outside for us in the Finlayson Channel was a bit worse in that these winds topped 50kts.  We had no choice but to leave as resetting the hook in the darkness was impossible. Happy to say that we’re now tucked away in another secure anchorage, but this one has an easy out.  By the way, after we finally clawed our way out of the anchorage Dominique said, “That was right up there with the ice.” We all agreed. 450 more miles to Seattle.

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The Final 650 Mile Push to Seattle

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Iceberg ChauncyDominique

As planned we all took our respective breaks, heading off to various parts of the country. This afternoon, with renewed energy, we gather back aboard Bagan to start the final 650 mile push to Seattle tomorrow morning.  During my break I tried to take in all that we had done and experienced in the past 4 ½ months and found that I could only come to terms with small parts of the trip, the larger events are going to take more time to distill into comprehendible memories.  I can tell you this though; it didn’t take me long to truly feel and understand that with Chauncey, Dominique and Sefton, I was blessed with the finest shipmates one could hope for.  To know that as a family we took on and met all the challenges that we did is the stuff books are written about.

More from down the road…

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A Complete Circumnavigation of North America

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Meyers Chuck, AK

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Meyers Chuck, AK

Arrived today in Ketchikan, AK. This is where Bagan will rest for a few weeks while we all go and try to regain some energy and sanity. It’s been a long, amazing haul and the end, Seattle, is almost in sight as from here we have about 650 more miles to go. I mentioned in a previous blog, it’s our goal to reach Elliot Bay Marina in Seattle November 6th. Again, if you’re in the neighborhood…

Last night we stayed at Meyers Chuck about 32 miles north of here (see the two pics posted). I was here in 1994 and yesterday, when I rounded the bend and headed into its inner harbor, I was very happy to see that in all this time, it has changed little. Meyers Chuck is a small community which sits tucked away off the main “thoroughfare” and consists of a summer population of around 80, which dwindles down to about 10 in the winter. Its cove is small, quite, beautiful and rimmed by small cottages which made me feel as though I was back in Maine. Very tempting to add Bagan to its lost of winter inhabitants.

As I mentioned, I was here aboard my first Nordhavn, “Gryphon”, in 1994. I sheepishly say this because I still can’t quite believe it, but arriving in Meyer’s Chuck yesterday marked a complete circumnavigation of North America for me. 12 years ago I bought “Gryphon” in Dana Point, CA. The following year I brought her up here to Alaska, going no further north than Tracy Arm, and stopping in Meyers Chuck. Two winters ago, via The Canal, I brought “Bagan” from Dana Point, CA, back east to RI. As you know, we spent this past summer crossing over the top of N. American to where we are now, Ketchikan. Certainly no big deal by Joshua Slocum standards, but something I’m pretty happy about nonetheless.

Hope to see you at Elliot Bay Marina!

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Whale Video

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No words today, just images.

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This amazing display greeted us as we pulled into Anita Bay last night.  No words today, just images.

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Sitka, Alaska

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In order to catch favorable currents we left Sitka pre-dawn this morning and had a nice calm day of powering to where we sit now, a stunning anchorage called Takatz Bay, tucked way back on the east side of Baranof Island.  Our two days in Sitka were exactly what we needed in that we took care of some very over-due maintenance on the engine and hydraulics as well as had a chance to explore the area and/or rest.  Sitka is a beautiful town rich in Russian/American history.  It seems that no matter where you are you get a magnificent view of the snow capped mountains which stand sentinel over this almost New England-like setting. Yet  Sitka’s history reaches far back to a time when New England was a fledgling. To quote one of the many books we found about Sitka, “When Chicago was merely a fort town in the middle of the prairies and San Francisco a small mission, Sitka was hailed as “The Paris of the West.”  Sitka has lost none of her charm and elegance and was a true respite for all of us.

File this under: “You’ve Got To Be Kidding Me!”; Just after we got through receiving our berth assignment from Sitka’s harbor master we were hailed on the VHF by the motor vessel ”Geraldine” and switched to another freq to talk.  Seems Geraldine’s owners, Walt and Kip Jones, have been following Bagan’s progress up to and through The Passage via this blog and they too were currently in Sitka where they keep their boat.  Walt and Kip had a bit more than a vested interest in our Passage transit as they did the very same trip last year in their 46-foot Jarvis Newman designed Maine lobster boat, “Geraldine”.  Their’s was an amazing voyage in that they, unlike Bagan, had very little trouble with the ice but, unlike Bagan again, got hammered in The Bering Sea. Yesterday Walt and Kip came aboard and we compared “notes from the edge”.  It was wonderfully cathartic to not only meet these two but to talk with people who’d “been there”.  Many times in this blog I struggled to find the appropriate words to describe what we were seeing and feeling in The Northwest Passage, and admittedly came up far short far too often.  It was very validating when Kip and Walt said even though it’s been a year since they did their transit, they too just can’t adequately express the power and imagery they also found up there. If you’d like to learn more about their transit, pick up August’s Soundings Magazine and read “Lobster Yacht Adventure”, a wonderfully written article about two very cool people.

And on yet another note… As any faithful reader may have noticed (both of you) these blogs postings have slowed down a bit.  We’re still underway, making tracks towards our hoped for arrival in Seattle on or around November 5th (if you’re in the neighborhood…) but the level (and this is a good thing) of adventure has dropped a bit.  We’re now in “cruise mode” and as such are trying to stay about as far away from adventure and potential danger as possible.  Therefore, less to fill you in on.  I can tell you this though; in about three more days we’ll be in Ketchikan where we’re all going to step away from Bagan for a few days, go our separate ways (this too is a good thing, we’re all still family/friends), get some energy back and then start the final leg down to Seattle.  With Greg’s departure in Sitka, Bagan’s crew is now just my step-son Chauncey, step-daughter Dominique, son Sefton and me. Life… How wonderful and very richly fitting that Bagan’s final leg will have aboard four family members who, in the past 15 years, haven’t had the chance to all be  together for more than five days, let alone five months.

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